Postcard from...Nagurumi Castle ruins, Gunma

 This is an outstanding preservation job on a hilltop castle (site), perched over the Tone River, in Gunma prefecture. The overgrowth has been cleared away, and the site of buildings & fortifications gentrified & identified, clearly identiable with really good signage.

Although the actual footprint of the site is quite small, it sits on a significant ridge with natural (steep!) defensive features, which were enhanced with cross-contour ditches. These have been bridged, which makes this an easy stroll of exploration. The view from the tip overlooking the valley is stunning, and I imagine this location would have been very difficult to overwhelm.

The connections with Sanada, of Ueda Castle fame, is quite something, given it's a long hour's drive around the mountains via the Agatsuma valley today and chilly enough even as spring is breaking.

This information from JCastle info:

Originally a fortification on this site was built by the Numata in defense of Numata Castle. The present fortifications date to Sanada Masayuki who fortified them to launch his attacks on Numata Castle. As an ally of the Takeda, Sanada Masayuki took control of the area by taking Iwabitsu Castle, Nagurumi Castle and finally Numata Castle in 1580. This area was heavily disputed between the Sanada and the Hojo until 1589 when Hideyoshi ended hostilities by giving the area, including Nagurumi Castle, to Sanada and the remainder to the Hojo. This decision did not sit well with the Hojo commander Inomata Kuninori who attacked and took Nagurumi Castle in late 1589. This was the famous spark that set off Hideyoshi's campaign to end the Hojo. Hideyoshi defetaed the Hojo the following year (1590) thus unifying all Japan. The Sanada were given Numata castle and Nagurumi was abandoned.

Please visit that great website for more castle info & places to explore!

Postcard from Karatsu Castle, Kyushu

I think this castle has been famous on Japanese TV/manga? How would I know!

My journey here across NW Saga prefecture was delightful (but slow), with trains not connecting and a lot of sitting around in Imari (honestly, not much to see or do there at all!). So, I bought a beer, found a nice place to sit in the sun, and read my book.

I was worried the castle would be in the dark already, but it was beautifully illuminated as I got into Karatsu station at sunset. I could see it resplendent on its perch, and made straight for it. Obviously a hilltop castle, and commanding the coastline of Karatsu Bay & the mouth of the Matsuura River. 

Nobody else was around, the stars came out. The shadows danced, my batteries ran low. Although I couldn't get into the keep (and no chance next morning as I had to really run to back to work on the first train) I did have plenty of the evening to absorb the majestic location, see the fishermen out on the bay, and hear absolutely nothing else - just the gentle breeze in the trees. Chance to sit down, take a breath, and really enjoy being where I was!

Yes, the castle is rebuilt. Yes, it's concrete...the masonry is awesome, the ramparts bewildering, the location breathtaking; the history & the legends abundant. I'll post again about the trains & their marvelous liveries (stay tuned, they're incredible!). I know I will not have many chances to come this way again, so allow me for indulging myself :)

If you have any chance at all to head west from Fukuoka, I really recommend Karatsu-jo!

Postcard from Iwakuni Castle, Yamaguchi Pref., Japan

This concrete "Moji" recreation of the medieval castle originally built here in 1608, was started in 1962. It was a "Yamajiro" or hill-top castle, as opposed to a flat-land "Hirajiro" castle. Kikkawa clan leader Hiroie was responsible for its construction, under the Mori banner. I think!

The oringinal pile only survived for seven years, for some reason incurring the displeasure of the Shogun and being ordered destroyed. Pity - stunning location atop Mount Shiroyama command the view over the Seto Sea & defensively, the Nishiki River curls aound the foot of mountain's steep slopes just right!

Thank god there's a ropeway up he 200m climb these days - only takes a few minutes. The actual climb in mid-summer would have been brutal, let alone 400 years ago trying to build, service or even worse, attack the place.

Kintaikyo Bridge nestles at the foot of the hill, itself a fabulous medieval construction and well worth a visit. The castle itself  boasts the largest dry moat, "Hakabori", around any Japanese Castle. Most of the lower mountaintop defences are overgrown and home to poisonous snakes - no place for sandal-shod visitors! Mostly unbothered by tourists, this is a peaceful spot, and the outlook from the top of the castle well-worth the effort. There are interesting displays of samurai swords, photos of other Japanese castles & detailed explanations of the castle's history & construction. The legend of the place + more photos on Flickr

My tip = if you've got time, a worthy day-trip from Hiroshima, beyond Miyajima (itself, a stunning day out!)...bit more off the beaten track in Japan without being inaccessible. Easily found by local train & bus :)