Postcard from Yutoku inari Shrine, Saga pref, Japan

 

This one of the most stunning shrines I've ever seen! Up on a hillside, well off the beaten track in rural Saga Prefecture, Yutoku Inari Shrine is an absolute belter!

Wow! I got the right bus after all!

I was not optimistic on the busride from Takeo Onsen, as I was the only person on the bus...was I on the right one (never really know in Japan!)? The bus terminus itself was even less inspiring, just a gravel turning area, and not a soul around. But I followed the signs and along the main drag beyond a large stone torii, familiar trinket shops & snack vendors came into view. And then around a corner, wow! The view (above) was breathtaking. Couldn't help but congratulate myself for persevering to get here.

The weather was spot on; the leaves were just changing; not too many tourists though a few charmless ones walking through my photographs (not half as bad as Dazaifu though!). I hope my photos do the complex justice - full set is here on Flickr - every footsteep revealed another gorgeous angle or detail. Very Japanese contrast of colours. What I really was not expecting was the path up behind the shrine, through countless bright, and older more faded, red torii. A steep climb, and not for the faint-hearted (witness the 9 or 'rescue stations' along the way) though there were a number of people considerably older than my staggering up the roughly hewn steps.

How many torii? Hundreds!

The view from the top of the hill was also very rewarding - Saga airport in the distance across the sea, and a chance to suck in some air, share knowing smiles with other game hillclimbers that we'd just hiked up an incomparable, culturally & spiritually unique, path through the gods.

A must visit, off the tourist route, photographers' dream. Skip Kyoto & Asakusa!

Just in time for autumn

Postcard from Ouo Shrine - The Floating Gates in the Ariake Sea, Kyushu

 

What a great find, on the Ariake Sea! This is a beautiful spot to slow down and take in the view! Regardless of the tide, these Torii (gates) are stunning in red, against the sea & skyline of Saga.

I took the local train down the Nagasaki Line, from my sake stop-off at Hizen Hama. Not too far, but a lovely glimpse of the sea all the way. A short walk from the deserted station of Tara (and a careful note of the next trains from the timetable!) and this stunning view appeared behind an abandoned restaurant and discarded fishing gear. 

As you can see, the tide was out - so I could walk around to the ocean-side as well, for some reverse angle shots. Dilemma, walk on the soft sand & get wet feet, or crunch over the razor-sharp oyster shells & shred my shoes? As you can see, this was a superbly photogenic, lesser known yet iconic 'must' for any camera-toting traveller wanting to find the real Japan. 

And, as my train was not due for ages, why not tackle a few deep fried oysters & wash them down with a Super Dry?! Technically, "sitting down in the shade to edit my photos" :)

Want to see more photos? Check out the album on Flickr right here - and please leave a comment!

Postcard from Karatsu Castle, Kyushu

I think this castle has been famous on Japanese TV/manga? How would I know!

My journey here across NW Saga prefecture was delightful (but slow), with trains not connecting and a lot of sitting around in Imari (honestly, not much to see or do there at all!). So, I bought a beer, found a nice place to sit in the sun, and read my book.

I was worried the castle would be in the dark already, but it was beautifully illuminated as I got into Karatsu station at sunset. I could see it resplendent on its perch, and made straight for it. Obviously a hilltop castle, and commanding the coastline of Karatsu Bay & the mouth of the Matsuura River. 

Nobody else was around, the stars came out. The shadows danced, my batteries ran low. Although I couldn't get into the keep (and no chance next morning as I had to really run to back to work on the first train) I did have plenty of the evening to absorb the majestic location, see the fishermen out on the bay, and hear absolutely nothing else - just the gentle breeze in the trees. Chance to sit down, take a breath, and really enjoy being where I was!

Yes, the castle is rebuilt. Yes, it's concrete...the masonry is awesome, the ramparts bewildering, the location breathtaking; the history & the legends abundant. I'll post again about the trains & their marvelous liveries (stay tuned, they're incredible!). I know I will not have many chances to come this way again, so allow me for indulging myself :)

If you have any chance at all to head west from Fukuoka, I really recommend Karatsu-jo!

Postcard from Ariake Sea - Floating Torii Gates of Ouo Shrine, Saga, Kyushu

Floating Torii Gates of Ouo

When I was thinking about extending my little trip around Kyushu, I happened to notice this little spot onthe map as I was looking at local train routes...and I thought OK, maybe, if I have time. The Floating Torii Gates of Ouo Shrine.

Ariaki Sea, beyond the torii

As you can see, it was a really good choice to find the time, catch the late afternoon light, and make the10-minute walk from Tara station (Nagasaki Line) to these magnificent torii, that stand into the tidal Ariaki Sea; at low tide I could slip & slide along the 'undersea road' and crunch across the oyster beds as well.

Oysters & Asahi :)

The view was gorgeous, oyster farms & the Kumamoto coastline yonder. The torii themselves glorious in their bright red livery. And time to kill for the next train south = delicious deep fried oysters & a well-earned beer!

Postcard from Takeo Onsen, Saga, Fukuoka

Takeo station

 A quick 'hello' from western Saga - I got the train here from Tosu, via a walkabout in Saga to find the castle there (details about that detour soon!), and arrived after dark. Unfortunately I had a lot of work to do in my hotel after a Cambridge session, but did manage to finish in time to see the famous onsen's gate ('mon') lit up before it closed. 

I enjoyed a late onsen at the hotel, with a view over the town from the 10th floor...and an early start next morning meant I could bathe in the real onsen as well, before catching my bus to Yutoku Inari Shrine (again, another postcard owing!).

Sakura mon (gate) Takeo onsen

Kanji isn't my strong suit, nor vending machine ticket dispensers, but I ended up in the super hot Motoyu pool - 45.5 degrees hot enough to inflict actual pain! Water itself  'smooth' and very refreshing with its sodium bicarbonate content.

I wish I'd had more time (or actually a car!) to explore the area better, but this glimpse was well worth the trip!

lucky dip

Postcard from 1609 - Hirado Dutch Trading House

Unfortunately, I did not have the time to actually visit the Dutch Trading House in Hirado, but with the benefit of a zoom lens I got close enough to photograph it from across the quay...and from the top of Hirado Castle. Close enough, I think?!

Hirado Dutch Trading House

A very historical building (although destroyed by command of Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu in 1640... rebuilt 2011), as it is recognised as one of, if not THE, first western buildings built in Japan (1609), as a base of operations for the Dutch East India Company.

Not many people know where Hirado is these days, but way back in the early 1600s was one of the most sought after trading destinations from Europe & China...it's possible just as hard to get to now as it was then, though the newish Hirado Bridge has undoubtfully eased travel from mainland Kyushu & Japan's most western train station (more from there in another postcard!).

Postcard from...Dazaifu Tenmangu, Fukuoka, Japan

I was unable to visit this 1,100 year old shrine in northern Kyushu before, so I made it a priority 'stop' for my next visit to the region. Daziafu Tenmangu is on every parent's bucket list for their teenage childrens' futures!

I was fortunate enough to have a spare couple of hours on my way to an examining gig last week to make the detour, and explore this famous complex. I was not alone - several thousand Chinese tourists had the same intentions, thought they didn't get there on a local bus from Hakata station (Fukuoka International airport is only half an hour away from the shrine).

I posted an album of photos from my visit on Flickr - please take a look & leave a 'like' or a comment!

Postcard from Hakata, Kyushu, Japan

Hakata ramen

I don't usually post 'food porn' pics, but I know Luna students well be jealous again! 

Here I am in Hakata, Fukuoka for work and enjoying Hakata ramen (shop in the huge train station as good as any, which the queue to get in suggests!) with a cold beer after a busy 'Cambridge' day, decompressing with my boos - from Fukuoka = she's an ideal food guide!

She also showed ne around the yatai area along the river - overpriced and pushy (ask you to hurry up & eat/drink after you've waited for a seat for ages in the drizzle)...food is OK but only for the outdoor eating experience & banging elbows with strangers - no Michelin stars here!

I'm not complaining though - I love visiting Kyushu, and Fukuoka people are really laid back & cool!

Hakata River yatai (food stalls)

An away day with Cambridge - Jim on the job in Kyushu

Fukuoka cadre B1 & B2 Speaking examiners

 My apologies for not being 'at work' once or twice recently. I know it looks like I was only having fun ridinng the shinkansen, eating Hakata ramen or climbing hills looking for castles...the side-benefits to being asked to do a really important role for Cambridge Centre JP026 (Kawaijuku) which is to train English teachers to become speaking examiners.

In late August I was asked to train a group for B1:Preliminary & B2:First levels, with the number of candidates likely to rise significantly in Kita-Kyushu. The weekend was the culmination of months of recruiting. A group of teachers, some of whom had met in 2024 training for A2 Key, but also 60% 'new' teachers to the Cambridge team. Blending previous learnings with wide-eyed "what's this all about" is tricky, but fun...made all the easier by the ample preparations by JP026 and a proper interview & induction process avoiding unecessary disappointments or FAQs slowing us down.

Hakata headaches? A2 team

Needless to say, a lot of hard work involved by all participants, but a team we did construct after a follow up certification process on the Sunday. This group will be heading out to high schools in northern Kyushu later this autumn to deliver speaking tests cheerfully to nervous first-time exam takers, encouraging a lot of 'can do' and applying universal assessment criteria for valid, globally accepted results. I'm really looking forward to seeing this group of professionals in demonstrating their skills soon, and to welcoming their debuts in-person (yes, another weekend away - I know you won't miss me, as Kazumi will again be entertaining my students!). 

A postcard from Aso Boy - Mount Aso, Kumamoto, Kyushu

Aso Boy: a 5-minute stop at Aso Station

I was fortunate enough to be travelling on a National Holiday from Kumamoto, towards northern Kyushu. An extra service of  "Aso Boy" was running (usually only at weekends). Of course I grabbed the chance to ride on this 'grand tour' slow train, over the Aso Caldera to Beppu!

It's a slow chugger of a train (not sure if that is the correct techinical description!) with a kids' play area (I avoided) as well as a cafe, taking four hours to climb up & across this active volcanic caldera - erupted last month!

Spectacular views if you take even a local service, but the frontmost or rearmost seats of Aso Boy are very well worth booking, well-ahead of travel time. There's only one service a day (in either direction). There are uninterrupted views of the panoramas as they unfold, as the driver's position is above & behind you, so I recommend clicking away, as every bend unveils another breathtaking gorge or rural view, surging river or cloud-studded skies across forbidding peaks. 

Stark skyline of Mount Aso

I loved the slow reveal of the countryside, with life in the fertile caldera carrying on as usual while some heads were turned by our iconic chariot! Of course you can drive up & around the area yourself (beware, it snows up here!) but why not sit back with a coffee & treat yourself? Cheaper than the blisteringly fast shinkansen, and obviously slower...which is just the way travel some times. 

What's your favourite 'secret' train line/trip in Japan?

A postcard from...Kagoshima, Kyushu

Sakurajima rumbling

I enjoyed my working day in Kagoshima recently, looking after an experienced group of teachers in their training as Young Learners speaking examiners. The events over the last couple of years have prevented most of them from actually examining, so it was refreshing to get their active status revived, and to have a couple of new faces also join the YLE team.

Training is always an intense effort, as covering three quite different levels from pre-A1 to A2 requires hands-on practice with materials, and consierable thought into what-ifs...which with children can mean just about anything! Main concern is with having the right kind of people in this role of responsibility, who I can trust to act properly & professionally.

mask-wearing styles in Kagoshima

I did manage to grab an hour of sunshine at lunch, and reacquaint myself with the stunning view that is an erupting volcano on the doorstep; Sakurajima has been rumbling for years now, but no less menacing! I also found some intersting street art in the rain, heading back to the station...why were ALL the hotels in Kagoshima fully booked? I'll never know, but learned my lesson to plan ahead a bit better next time! 

Enjoy Kyushu

 You think Kyushu is far from Matsumoto, don’t you? It’s true it’s a long way, but if you take a flight, it takes only an hour and a half from Matsumoto airport to Fukuoka, and from there to the Shinkansen station, Hakata, is only fifteen minutes. My plane took off from Matsumoto airport at 15:30, and I arrived in Kumamoto at 18:00. It is not far!

 

Kumamoto is a pleasant city, not too big, not too small; just right medium size. There is a beautiful castle in the center of city, nostalgic trams trundle around, and there are lots of green spaces even in the city centre.

 

JR Kyushu runs some interesting special trains services. These are completely different from regular trains. Most of these kinds of trains were designed by Etsuji Mitooka, who is a great industrial designer. These trains are eye-catching on the outside, and inside have amazing designs and original styling. One of them has a bar in the train car, another has sofas and bookshelves; there are also lovely mummy & kids’ chairs, wonderful viewing decks, etc.

The inside of "Aso-boy"

 

I experienced the journey from Kumamoto to Beppu aboard “Asoboy”. As a passenger, you can spoil yourself with original food, buy branded souvenirs and be treated to special service. In the train, there are some play spaces for children and lovely pair seats for children and parent. I enjoyed the panoramic view of Mount Aso from the high viewing seats. The friendly crew offered to take memorial photographs for travelers. It was an exciting, lovely experience. I enjoyed a lot.

 

On this trip I realized again how wonderful Kyushu is, especially abundant with beautiful waters. You can enjoy a wide variety of amazing hot springs, or “Onsen”, in places like Beppu, Yufuin and Kurokawa. You can explore unique cities and see abundant nature. Of course, the food is lovely. As I experienced, the people are calm and kind as well.

Teruki

 

 

Strange Festivals - Shouting Festival

In Kyushu in Japan there is a strange "Shouting Contest".

The rule is you shout to the mike and the winner is the person who shouts loudest. I want to do this contest, because I'm really good at shouting, so I think I can win!

Mr. T