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| About that train you wanted to catch! |
The ticket counter guy's face went white. He'd seen a memo somewhere, he'd seen the news, and he works for JR. At the ticket counter. In Matsumoto. Hokkaido is a day away and nobody is going to ask for a ticket to Sapporo, surely? Oh no, this foreign dude just did, and there's a line of people behind him...
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| Don't panic - helpful staff everywhere |
By the time we'd finished our exchange, that line of people was significantly longer and more impatient!
What he tried to decode, under real-time stress, from his fax about schedule disruption, was that there'd been a landslide, after torrential rain, around the coastline of Ushiura Bay. That had wiped out the train tracks somewhere on the Muroran Line, meaning the Hokuto Express was not in operation and instead, a replacement, limited timetable, non-reserved train service with a bus link around the affected track was in place. He did his best to understand the fax himself + the geography, while I was leaning on his counter in dismay wondereing just how long it'd take me to get there & back again (and trying to ignore the daggers I was getting from the queue building up behind me).
After he'd consulted with a couple of JR mates, and scratched his head a lot, he was able to give me a cobbled together itinerary/set of tickets/route.
Fast forward 48 hours and I've disembarked a Hokuto train in Oshamambe, where some evidence of the Hokkaido Shinkansen construction is in sight - concrete pillars, raised sections of track & loads of orange cranes. But not many buses! JR actually managed this extremely well...and nobody was moaning or throwing their 'me first' weight around. Carraige by carriage, we were invited to wait on the platform and not push up the stairs/over the bridge & down again - then released in a very orderly fashion to find a seat (thank you, not standing) for a 90 minute diversion on a comfy limo bus to some hitherto unknown town called Toya.
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| Crowd control with JR Hokkaido |
A train was waiting there - for everyone from the bus shuttle to re-embark. This took a while, because I don't think there are enough buses in this part of the world to cope with such a sudden relay. No drama - the local shop was stripped bare by the locusts and everyone waited patiently to get on our way - whenever!
Throughout this boring queue maintenance, I did not hear a single raised voice or see any frustration from JR staff, who were superbly organised & calm, communicating clearly & directing passengers to the 'very Japanese' invisible "right place".
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| Express tracks |
OK, my journey took longer, but that's part of the joy of travelling, isn't it. I can add this to a couple of other train rides which were far worse (a couple in Thailand spring to mind!) and any Brits will doubtless have dozens of domestic disasters to moan about.